GLOCK malfunction

A Poor Parts Combo for the Glock 27

Okies a, I’ve been changing parts and stuff on my G27 again.  This time I put in a 3.5lb connector (trigger connector for those who may not understand what I’m saying).  

Thing is, the last part change was from the stock to a 21lb recoil spring, wherein I was warned about jams with that sort of spring with “regular” (meaning not +P) ammo, which didn’t happen initially.

So, last night I installed a “Ghost Rocket Connector, 3.5lbs” for my trigger pull weight to be 3.5lbs.  

Took it to the range today to check it out.  

I noticed two things.

The first prominent issue was that I couldn’t fire at a rate higher than about a round per second without a jam.

The second thing I noticed (or didn’t notice), was that there was no felt change in the trigger pull, crispness, or reset.

Now, I blame the jams on two things.  

One, the heavy recoil spring with factory ammo, as I was warned about by the glockstore.com

Two, I had put a reasonable (but not too heavy) amount of Brownell’s Action Lube on my slide rails and ALL moving parts of my pistol.  So, whereas last time I fired, the slide was not cycling as quickly, hence no jams, even with the heavier spring, but this time, with the heavier spring still installed, and the ability to squeeze the trigger more quickly due to the connector change, I believe that the slide was just cycling back too fast to grab & feed the cartridges.

My solution is this:

At the range, I will continue to use the lighter trigger connector, but will use the factory recoil spring.

When carrying my +P ammo, I will use the heavier recoil spring.  HOWEVER, I DO need to get some more Zombie Max rounds and test them rapid fire with the heavy spring and with the factory spring to compare.  I’m pretty certain that the +P ammo will function fine in the pistol the way it is….but next time I shoot factory ammo at the range, I WILL put in the factory recoil spring (unless I decide on a less heavy one that is still  heavier than “factory”).

This is why we test fire after changing parts!  We MUST be certain our firearm is working at tip-top shape if we are to rely on it to protect our lives or the lives of those we love!!!

Peace Ya All

~S~

Aha! Got that G27 Heavy Spring to Gimme a Jam!

Okies, went to the range again today….took the Glock 27, with the new 21lb recoil spring I used last time with no issue.  

Had no issue today…until….

Pay close attention….

TRIPLE TAPS!  Was using Remington 180gr, FNFMJ Ammo (UMC Factory Stuff)….and as long as I  was on double-taps it was fine.  But I did a few rounds of triple-taps at the silhouette (the one I totally mangled the center of mass out of ), and then, and ONLY then, did I experience any jams at all, And, they actually were not stove pipes, but rather – feed jams.  This surprised me cuz I had lubed up the slide rails and everything else with some super duper stuff from Brownell’s, whose name I don’t recall at the moment, but my “gun guy” recommended it highly.  I’ll post the name later….don’t feel like going downstairs to look at present.

So, the 21lb recoil spring I bought from Glockstore.com, DID apparently cause a few jams.  However, NOT the stove-pipe jams I was warned about, but FEED jams…almost like the cartridge was “sticking” to the feed ramp.  A bit odd I thought, as I was shooting with both hands and definitely NOT “limp-wristing” the shots.  I was only loading 8 rounds per magazine.  Out of each, I took the first shot well aimed, then two double-taps for a total of 5, then the remaining 3 as triple-taps.  Accuracy was friggin outstanding, but I DID actually get 2 jams out of around, heck, I don’t know, say 90 rounds.  

Now, I would estimate that had I been firing ALL +P ammo, there would have been ZERO jams….but am not sure yet, and need to test a few boxes of +P.  I’m just too cheap to buy more.  I carry Hornady Zombie rounds in it daily, but I sure as heck don’t shoot them at the range on a regular basis at near $1/rd !!  But, just for the sake of testing, and for my own satisfaction, I will buy some more quick as I can find them, and take them to the range….SOLELY so I can report back here on this “jam” issue the glockstore warned me about….the one I can’t get to happen.  Oh, just FYI, I am definitely NOT knocking the glockstore.com sales people on this!!!!!   I love that store, and they definitely know WTH they are talking about.  I’m just testing their theory in my own personal shooting practice is all.  Naw, glockstore dot com totally ROCKS!

Wednesday, I’m also installing a 3.5lb trigger connector (& some SS assy pins), so we’ll see if that trigger will change anything as well while I’m at the range any dang way LOL.  Oh, btw, if you are in Dayton and already have a CHL/CCW Permit, there is a LEGAL UPDATE CLASS on Feb. 26, 2014 from 5:30pm-9:30pm.  Keep that sort of stuff up to date in your head!!!  Don’t want to carry illegally anywhere, and ESPECIALLY DON’T WANT TO MAKE A BAD SHOOTING CALL!!!!!

For now, ya all take care!

Peace Out!  Carry proud, you’re an American exercising your civil right to do so, and if you don’t fight to maintain that right, you will eventually lose it (and then another, and then another….)

~Sean

Question for GLOCK Owners

Anyone Ever Had One of Your Assembly Pins Come Partially Out at the Range?

Here’s what happened, in order:

  1. Purchased a 21lb recoil spring for my Gen 4 GLOCK 27 (if you don’t know already, that’s a .40 S&W)
  2. While waiting on order, sent e-mail to support to ask them if it was ok to use with factory ammo
  3. Receive spring in mail & install it (on package the spring was in, it simply said that it was to reduce recoil, and didn’t say anything at all about what sort of ammo to use with such a spring).
  4. Receive eMail from Glockstore support saying that it was intended for +P ammo, and that I might get some “stove pipe jams” using “regular” factory ammo.  No mention of any other possible issues.
  5. Went to range.  Fired about 120 rounds.
  6. Came home, happy that it had worked well with factory ammo.  Recoil/muzzle jump reduced & accuracy improved a good bit.
  7. Field stripped the pistol to clean it, and discovered my rear (through the grips) assembly pin was halfway out
  8. Pushed pin back in with my thumb
  9. Put my +P self-defense ammo magazine back in & re-holsterd for concealed carry, & haven’t shot it since.

Now, I have sent the Glockstore an email asking if that spring could have attributed to the pin coming partially out, and told them I was extremely glad it didn’t come totally out while I was shooting.  Sent that mail this morning and an awaiting a reply.

Meanwhile, I’ve ordered some stainless steel replacement assembly pins, and a Glock armorer’s tool (& a 3.5 lb trigger connector).

Now I’ve been considering that pin coming partially out a good bit.  Doesn’t make sense to me at all.  I don’t care if the recoil spring was 31 lbs, that should NOT have happened in my opinion. The very worst thing that should’ve happened would be a “stove pipe jam” from the slide not cycling rearward far enough to allow for proper case ejection.  There is no way that I can think of to justify my pin coming half out.  It just DOES NOT MAKE SENSE TO ME!

So, anyone ever had anything similar happen?  If so, did you determine why?

If you haven’t ever had a pin come partially out during a shooting session, given the above info, do you have any speculations as to why MINE did?  

It just couldn’t be internal pressure from factory ammo that did it.  The spring would merely compensate for increased pressure.  NO excessive pressure should have been put upon the grip area, especially by factory ammo, UNLESS the slide was cycling rearward too hard and in turn hitting the rear of the pistol wayyy too hard on the forward motion.   However, if it had been doing that, then certainly I would have gotten a jam because the slide would have cycled forward so dang fast that a casing would have not properly ejected.  Also, forward slide pressure against the frame on the return stroke seems like it would do nothing causing a lateral motion necessary for the pin to slide out at all.  Actually, to me it seems like it would just draw the pin into the frame harder, rather than loosening anything up.

ANY IDEAS ON THIS WHOLE PIN ISSUE???  If it happened to you, what would you do?  Think my pistol is FUBAR?

I suppose I’ll contact my armorer and ask them for the time being, but I just can’t imagine they’ll say anything more than to put the factory spring back in, which I do NOT want to do.  I bought the dang thing to reduce recoil, and it does so even with factory ammo which was still properly extracted.  See, I only have my 2nd, 3rd, little finger & thumb on my shooting hand.  I lost my index finger & metacarpal due to a severe thermal burn when I was working on an ejection seat in the USAF…which is a lot of the reason why I NEED to reduce recoil.  I can get a good grip on the pistol, even one handed, but after 100+ rounds, the ‘regular’ recoil starts to wear on my hand to the extent that the hand slides upward on the rear of the frame (slightly above the “beavertail” and I sometimes get just a little slide burn on the web space between my (now) first finger & thumb…hence my intense desire to reduce recoil.

Does anyone think there might be a manufacturing defect in my pistol?  Would you call GLOCK?  I may.  I just don’t friggin like the idea of taking a chance on my pistol coming apart on me while firing a round.  That just could not possibly be a good thing!!!!   I mean, I don’t think it would “blow up” in my hand — heck, with the other two pins still in, I doubt much of anything would happen — but regardless, a pin coming part way out during a range session is definitely an issue as I see it.

I’ll take whatever input anyone may have on this.  Be sure to consider the facts I’ve given and run the logic on the concept, but comment away if you would? 😀

Thanks

~S~